Bare-Eyed Cockatoo: Personality, Care, and What to Expect from This Playful Australian Parrot

The bare-eyed cockatoo — also called the little corella — is one of the most underrated parrots in aviculture. Smaller, quieter, and more independent than umbrella or Moluccan cockatoos, this playful Australian native can learn to talk, solve puzzles, and bond deeply with its family for 40 to 50 years. But it is still a cockatoo: intelligent enough to open cage latches, social enough to suffer from isolation, and long-lived enough to outlast most marriages. Here is what every prospective owner should know before bringing one home.

At-a-glance guide

What kind of personality does a bare-eyed cockatoo actually have?

The bare-eyed cockatoo (Cacatua sanguinea), also called the little corella or short-billed corella, is a medium-sized white cockatoo native to Australia and southern New Guinea. Adults stand roughly 14 to 17 inches tall and are distinguished by the patch of bare, blue-grey skin around each eye — a feature that gives the species its common name and a perpetually quizzical expression. In the wild, these birds are among the most numerous and adaptable of all cockatoo species, forming large, noisy flocks that forage across grasslands, agricultural fields, and urban parks (World Parrot Trust, n.d.). That adaptability translates directly into the home: bare-eyed cockatoos are playful, curious, and notably less demanding than their larger cousins, but they are still cockatoos — intelligent, social, and capable of developing serious behavioral problems if their needs go unmet.

Compared with umbrella or Moluccan cockatoos, bare-eyeds are often described as more independent and less prone to the extreme clinginess that can make larger cockatoos challenging pets. They are active, acrobatic birds that enjoy climbing, swinging, and manipulating objects with their feet and beak. Many individuals learn to speak a modest vocabulary of words and phrases, and their natural contact call — a rolling, quavering cry — is less ear-splitting than the screams of larger cockatoos, though it is still loud enough to be a consideration for apartment dwellers. A bare-eyed cockatoo that receives consistent attention, enrichment, and out-of-cage time can be a delightful companion for 40 to 50 years (Lafeber Co., 2023).

Is a bare-eyed cockatoo right for your home?

What does a healthy bare-eyed cockatoo diet look like day to day?

The foundation of a bare-eyed cockatoo's diet should be a high-quality formulated pelleted diet, which provides balanced levels of protein, vitamins, and minerals that a seed-only mix cannot deliver. The Merck Veterinary Manual (2024) notes that pelleted diets have dramatically improved nutritional intake and health outcomes in captive parrots. A bare-eyed cockatoo typically needs about ¼ to ⅓ cup of pellets per day, supplemented with an equal volume of fresh vegetables — dark leafy greens, carrots, bell peppers, broccoli, and sweet potato are excellent choices — and a smaller portion of fruit as a treat.

Seed mixes, especially those heavy in sunflower seeds, should be treated as occasional rewards, not dietary staples. Cockatoos fed predominantly seed are at high risk for obesity, hepatic lipidosis, and atherosclerosis. Vitamin A deficiency is particularly common and can weaken the respiratory and gastrointestinal mucosa, predisposing the bird to infections. Fresh, clean water must be available at all times, and food and water bowls should be washed daily. Because bare-eyed cockatoos are ground-foragers in the wild, scattering a portion of their daily pellets on a clean foraging mat or tray can provide valuable mental stimulation at mealtime (Lafeber Co., 2023).

How much space and what kind of cage does a bare-eyed cockatoo need?

A bare-eyed cockatoo needs the largest cage your budget and space allow — ideally one that provides enough width for the bird to spread its wings fully and flap without touching the bars. Bar spacing should be ¾ inch to 1 inch, appropriate for a medium-sized parrot. The cage must be constructed of powder-coated or stainless steel; bare-eyed cockatoos are determined chewers, and galvanized wire can cause heavy-metal toxicity if ingested. Escape-proof latches are essential — these intelligent birds are skilled at opening simple cage doors, and an escaped cockatoo can destroy furniture, electrical cords, and toxic houseplants within minutes.

Inside the cage, provide multiple perches of varying diameters and textures. Natural wood branches — manzanita, dragonwood, or pesticide-free fruit-tree branches — exercise the feet and help prevent pressure sores. Position perches so the bird can move between them without its tail feathers rubbing against the bars. Include a variety of destructible toys: untreated wood blocks, cardboard, palm-leaf shredders, and foraging devices that require the bird to solve a simple puzzle to access food. Rotate toys weekly. A bare-eyed cockatoo with nothing to chew will find something to chew, and that something is often a door frame, a window sill, or its own feathers.

What health problems should a bare-eyed cockatoo owner watch for?

Bare-eyed cockatoos are generally hardy, but several conditions appear with enough frequency that every owner should know the early signs. Psittacine beak and feather disease (PBFD) — a circovirus that attacks the immune system and feather follicles — is a serious concern in cockatoos. Affected birds may show progressive feather loss, abnormal feather development, and beak deformities. There is no cure, and the disease is highly contagious among psittacines, which makes testing new birds before introduction to an existing flock essential (Merck Veterinary Manual, 2024).

Obesity and its metabolic consequences — fatty liver disease, atherosclerosis, and joint stress — are common in captive cockatoos fed seed-heavy diets with insufficient exercise. Behavioral disorders, particularly feather-destructive behavior and screaming, are not medical diseases per se but are among the most common reasons cockatoos are surrendered to rescues. These behaviors almost always stem from inadequate enrichment, insufficient out-of-cage time, or inconsistent social interaction. An annual examination by an avian veterinarian, including baseline blood work and infectious-disease screening, is the single most effective preventive measure. The Association of Avian Veterinarians (AAV) maintains a searchable directory of board-certified avian practitioners.

How do you keep a bare-eyed cockatoo mentally stimulated and behaviorally healthy?

Mental enrichment is not optional for a bare-eyed cockatoo — it is a core welfare requirement. In the wild, these birds spend a large portion of their day foraging across grasslands and agricultural fields, covering significant distances and making dozens of decisions about what to eat, where to land, and how to interact with flock members. A captive bird that receives a full food bowl in the same spot every morning has none of that cognitive engagement, and boredom in a cockatoo can manifest as screaming, feather-plucking, or stereotyped pacing within weeks.

Foraging toys that require the bird to manipulate, chew, or solve a puzzle to access food are one of the highest-impact changes an owner can make. Training sessions using positive reinforcement — a small piece of nut or a favored seed as a reward — provide mental exercise and strengthen the human-bird bond. Even five to ten minutes of target training or trick training per day makes a measurable difference. Regular bathing or misting several times a week supports good feather condition and is often a source of visible enjoyment. Allow the bird to dry in a warm, draft-free room. A bare-eyed cockatoo that is mentally engaged, physically active, and socially connected is a joy to live with; one that is bored and isolated is a behavioral time bomb.

What should you know before bringing a bare-eyed cockatoo home?

A bare-eyed cockatoo is a 40-to-50-year commitment. That means the bird you bring home in your thirties may still be with you in your eighties. Before acquiring one, verify that an avian veterinarian is accessible in your area — not all general-practice veterinarians treat birds, and emergency exotic-animal care is not available in every community. Calculate the ongoing costs: a high-quality pelleted diet, fresh produce, toys that will be destroyed and replaced monthly, annual veterinary exams with blood work, and a cage large enough for a medium-sized parrot represent a significant recurring expense.

Consider the noise. Bare-eyed cockatoos are quieter than Moluccans, but they are still cockatoos — their contact calls carry through walls, and a bored bird can vocalize for hours. If you live in an apartment, a condo, or a home with noise-sensitive family members, spend time around adult bare-eyed cockatoos before committing. Consider the dust. Cockatoos produce a fine, powdery down that coats surfaces throughout the home and can aggravate respiratory conditions in sensitive individuals. An air purifier with a HEPA filter is strongly recommended. None of this is meant to discourage ownership — bare-eyed cockatoos are wonderful companions for the right home — but the decision should be made with eyes wide open, not on impulse after watching a cute video online.

When should a bare-eyed cockatoo owner seek emergency veterinary care?

A bare-eyed cockatoo that is fluffed at the bottom of the cage, not eating, or producing scant or abnormal droppings needs an avian veterinarian today. Birds hide illness as a survival strategy, and by the time a cockatoo looks obviously sick, the situation is often advanced. Labored breathing, tail-bobbing with each breath, or open-mouth breathing are red flags for respiratory disease — aspergillosis, bacterial pneumonia, or inhaled foreign bodies are all possibilities. A bird that is bleeding and the bleeding does not stop within a few minutes, or a broken blood feather that continues to drip, is a same-day emergency.

Neurological signs — seizures, head tilt, inability to perch, sudden blindness, or loss of balance — can indicate heavy-metal toxicity, advanced nutritional deficiency, or central nervous system infection. Any bird that has been unsupervised and may have chewed on galvanized wire, lead-based paint, costume jewelry, or other questionable metal objects should be seen immediately. A crop that feels full and doughy hours after the last meal may indicate crop stasis, which can become life-threatening within 24 hours. Keep the phone number of your avian veterinarian and the nearest 24-hour exotic-animal emergency clinic posted where every family member can find it.

Bottom line: Is a bare-eyed cockatoo the right parrot for you?

A bare-eyed cockatoo can be a playful, intelligent, and deeply engaging companion for 40 to 50 years — but only in a home that can meet its needs for space, social interaction, mental stimulation, and preventive veterinary care. The essentials are straightforward: a high-quality pelleted diet with fresh produce, the largest cage you can afford, hours of daily out-of-cage time, rotating enrichment, and an annual avian vet exam. Get those right, and this species rewards its owner with decades of acrobatic antics, vocal chatter, and genuine companionship.

The species is less demanding than larger cockatoos, but "less demanding" is not the same as low-maintenance. A bare-eyed cockatoo is still a cockatoo — intelligent enough to open cage latches, social enough to suffer from isolation, and long-lived enough to outlast most marriages. If you are prepared for the noise, the dust, the chewing, and the half-century commitment, a bare-eyed cockatoo can be one of the most rewarding parrots in aviculture. If you are not, there are lower-commitment companion birds that may be a better fit — and the bird deserves an owner who knows the difference.

References

• Lafeber Co. (2023). Bare-eyed cockatoo personality, food & care. https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/species/bare-eyed-cockatoo/
• Merck Veterinary Manual. (2024). Nutritional diseases of pet birds. https://www.merckvetmanual.com/exotic-and-laboratory-animals/pet-birds/nutritional-diseases-of-pet-birds
• Merck Veterinary Manual. (2024). Psittacine beak and feather disease. https://www.merckvetmanual.com/exotic-and-laboratory-animals/pet-birds/psittacine-beak-and-feather-disease
• World Parrot Trust. (n.d.). Little corella (Cacatua sanguinea). https://parrots.org/encyclopedia/little-corella/